A Trek to the Jamalabad Fort

“Why do you go away? So that you can come back. So that you can see the place you came from with new eyes and extra colors. And the people there see you differently, too. Coming back to where you started is not the same as never leaving.” 
    - Terry Pratchet, A Hat full of Sky 

So we set off on a cloudy Saturday morning to the rugged old town of Belthangady, a good two and a half hours by bus from Mangalore city. We had heard people repeatedly making it clear that trekking during monsoon was not very advisable, unless of course you were religious. Those words seemed very distant as we inched closer to the fort we intended to take hold of, the Jamalabad fort. Jamalabad Fort is an old hilltop fortification in Killoor, Belthangady, Dakshina Kannada district, Karnataka. It is located in the Kudremukh range of hills, 8 km north of Belthangady town. The fort is 1700 ft. above sea level and is also referred locally as "Jamalagadda" or "Gadaikallu". The fort was built by Tipu Sultan in 1794 and named after his mother, Jamalabee. It is also quite fascinating to know that this fort had a key role to play in the 4 th war of Mysore. History as a subject had always interested me, and the place we were about to go to had some really gripping history associated with it.

The Jamalabad Fort

We alighted the bus at Belthangady and boarded another local bus that would take us to Manjotty. The attire that we were in along with our backpacks made us very conspicuous to the people around, even the bus conductor was hesitant to give us a one way ticket to heaven. It was time for a full team meeting, one of many we were going to have along the way. Agenda was very clear. Was it worth the risk? After some deep discussion and a heap full of democracy, we came to the conclusion that it was.

Entrance to the base of the hill

From Manjotty it was a two kilometer walk to the base of the mountain. We crossed a bridge along the way and it was a delight to see the waters in full flow thanks to the continuous rainfall in this region. We could see the hill by now and the very thought of climbing to the top was scary to say the least. At the base of the hill there is a billboard that displays the entry fee one has to pay, though no one is present to supervise. They say wherever you want to get to, you have to go one step at a time and that was exactly what we were to do, seemed simple enough at the time. With the girls singing old Hindi songs, we started the climb. It was quite a difficult climb. The steps were more slippery than we had imagined. Due to the continuous rain in these parts, algae tend to grow on rocky surfaces which is a nightmare for trekkers. I really thought the rain gods were on our side that day, for rain while trekking on slippery rocks is the last thing one would want. It did rain quite a few times but always when we had some shelter or the other so that we could take a break. We had to be alert as leeches were a scare in these parts during this time of the year. Some of us did fall prey to the leeches but we did manage to stay away from them for the most part. 

The river in full flow

Stairway to heaven

On quite a few occasions we were confronted with the same question. Should we continue or just go back while we still can? We had no idea how the journey as we reached the very top would be. The steps were already getting steeper by the minute and slippery too. The light showers now and then just made it worse. Our real shocker came however when we saw a huge tree fallen on the way. The journey from here, we knew would be quite difficult. It was time for another team meeting and like an army of ants on a mission we kept moving.

The climb

The Fallen tree

We found remains of a single cannon on our way and also a single room at the top. A few more yards and we would be there, right on top. It was an experience of a lifetime. Standing right at the edge, where the walls of the fort once stood and looking into the vast expanse of nature that lay before us, was indeed a divine feeling. Not much of the fortifications but just the fort falls and parapets still remained. Our hearts dropped for a few seconds as the clouds covering the region cleared in haste and we were left with nothing but a light cool breeze and a whole lot of greenery. We also found an unmanned microwave repeater station at the top. The Kudremukh peak was faintly visible from where we were standing. We were left wanting for more and we got just that as we found a tank to store water inside the fort. It was like icing on the cake. We returned to the top to fill our tired and empty stomachs and as we were conversing, it came to my mind that this place was also known for something not so fascinating. It seems during Tipu’s reign those not in favour of Tipu were hurled from the top of this fort into total abyss. But then I loved Tipu and that’s with a straight face.

The lake inside the fort

Remains of a cannon

We had set our minds on something and had achieved it. It was a silly but proud feeling of accomplishment. We had made friends out of total strangers, had come to know our friends better. Had come to know ourselves better and for some of us we found where we truly belong.

               

The clouds clearing from underneath us

                                                                                  

In some time the sun came out, in all its glory and majesty. We had to get back down before dark. We had climbed 1876 steps to the top and we had to climb them all the way down. Something told me we were going to make it.

Photo credits : Rajashekar Vasanth and Akash Suresh.

A Trek to the Horseface

The wind blew against my face.

It was cold. Cold that made even us, youngsters, shiver as the bus made its way through the modest streets of Bajagoli. The night had crawled its way through and the stars shown bright and luminous in the vast expanse of the sky above. The roads were lined on either sides by dense forests that extended way beyond plain sight, home to wild animals of all kinds. Excitement showed in each of our faces. Six of us, including myself, bracing ourselves for what was in store for us. The road that we had taken could lead to only one possible destination of adventure. Our destination. Kudremukh.

Kudremukh, a hill station located in the Chickamagalur district of Karnataka, is sandwiched between Karkala and Kalasa. Though the town itself is picturesque and known for its scenic beauty, we were interested in something unique that the town housed. Something that gave the town its name: The Kudremukh peak. We planned to trek on the second highest mountain peak in the state of Karnataka and our fantasies were about to come to life.

The bus halted at Kudremukh and we got ourselves off. It was unnervingly quiet for a town, for there was no civilization around except for a refreshment store. The aroma of fresh coffee filled our senses and it was an invitation we couldn’t resist. Having had the fresh coffee, we decided to take a jeep to the guide’s house which was eight kilometers further into the jungle. We would stay the night in the guide’s house and then start the trek early the next morning.

The driver of the jeep was an interesting fellow. He kept repeating how terrible the road was and tried to scare the shit out of us by revealing that wild animals were a common sight in these jungles and could jump on us at any instant. After some rigorous driving, we finally arrived at the place we would call home for the next couple of days. The house was built in the old traditional way and was quite modest. The guide’s name was Arun. He welcomed us in and showed us to our room. We lighted off our backpacks and surveyed the room. It was not huge but could hold the six of us comfortably. In some time dinner was ready and after having had our fill we decided to call it a day. The ocean of stars shone bright in the clear sky outside.

The next day, having had our breakfast consisting of some pancakes and a simple palya, we set out. The six of us, the guide and his dog, Bella. It was a good ten kilometers to the peak and one had to climb up and down six mountains before one reached the base of the Kudremukh peak, and so it began. We trotted slowly up the muddy road and after walking some distance we got to see the bounty of nature, nature in its divine form. The breathtaking view of the towering, lush green mountains made me humble. I felt small and insignificant compared to what lay in front of me.

The bases of mountains generally have fresh streams of water flowing through. These were the waters we had to rely on for quenching our thirst. The waters were very cool and were ideal if one was tired and wanted to take a break during the trek. The sun was out and started beating down on us.

The mountains are home to all kinds of wild animals. We were lucky to witness a few like the Lion-Tailed Macaque, the Common Langur, the Sloth Bear and the Samba, thanks to the guide who could spot them from miles away. An excited friend of mine started pointing at things thinking they were animals. The guide cajoled saying that if it was a wild animal then he would spot it before us implying that we were low lives who didn’t know shit.

Bella was the show stopper. He was quite the character and tried to stick his face in all of our photographs. There wasn’t a single photo in which Bella couldn’t be found. Like the show off he was, he would pose majestically on a high pointing rock the moment he saw one and moved from his stance only upon receiving a couple of blows from his master.

         

We stopped many times along the way to have some water and rest our legs. The guide commented that even sixty year olds wouldn’t take so many breaks en route. This was enough incentive for us to start walking again. After hours of climbing, there we were at the base of the magnificent Kudremukh peak.

I was exhausted, my legs were giving away but I knew that a few more steps and I would be on the top of the mountain, literally. It is at this moment I realized that the human will is the most potent of all the weapons we possess and that failure and success are merely choices that we make. A divine feeling indeed.

With the last stretch of the trek yet to be completed, we set out, with Bella leading the way. After what seemed like aeons, we were finally at the top of the horse face, staring at the huge forest that looked like horsehair from afar. The world looked tiny from this altitude and it somehow made you feel above petty things. The bounty of nature now was clearly visible. The beauty of this moment slowly started sinking in and an air of satisfaction and accomplishment filled us. We had just set our mind on something and achieved it and that was good enough for me. A Chinese proverb says ‘’ it’s not about the destination but the journey that takes you there’’, and so it was for us. Apart from a sense of accomplishment, the fun we had along the way was the only thing we could carry home with us.

After spending some time at the peak, we had our lunch and decided it was time to head back home. At this moment the guide revealed to us something that he should have done a long time ago. Climbing up was the easy part. It was getting down that was difficult. And so another journey began.

The Curious Case Of Uniqueness

Human beings are unique.

  

Indeed we are. But what makes us so?

Is it that our brains are far more evolved than any other living being? Probably. But then why do we, humans, fight over petty issues, worry about insignificant things and just can’t seem to find something that satisfies our so called evolved brain. Why?

Is it because we are able to think creatively and be innovative in whatever we do? Because we are able to create something, virtually out of nothing? Ponder over certain ideas that are completely alien to us and probably move on to improvise on these ideas? Why then do we, humans, shade a problem by innovatively thinking of a solution that is a bigger problem in itself? Why do we complicate issues by designing things that were intended to simplify the same? Why indeed?

Is it because we are gifted with the so called art of speech which is not possessed by other creatures, the speech that helps communicate effectively to our fellow friends and colleagues? If this was the case then it would be quite ironic to note that most of the interpersonal problems faced by human beings is because of lack of effective communication amongst ourselves. It would be quite strange to agree to this hypothesis.

The question as to why humans are unique invariably leads to the statement that they are far more superior when compared to other beings supported by the fact that they are on top of the food chain. I never really did understand the credibility of this statement; that is, how humans themselves call themselves superior in conversation with one of their own kind!! Well, all said and done humans still are on the top of the chain and this is because of the technology that we carry around with us, may it be a mobile phone or a rifle.

This circles right back to the human brain and leads to a conclusion that we are on top because we have the intelligence to think and create. This definitely makes us so called ‘superior’ (bull shit). But is being superior being unique?

This takes us back to the original question as to why human beings are unique. Now that’s the right question isn't it?

Perhaps it’s because we still manage to screw certain things up even though our brains are highly evolved. Because we solve problems with an intention of creating bigger problems to be solved in the future. It wouldn't be any fun if you solved all the problems for your future generations now would it? And also because we are foolish enough to ourselves call ourselves superior.

That’s what makes us unique.

One of a kind, don’t you think?

The Shadow

A road unwinds

Through the rugged town

The silent kinds;

Engines revving – the silence broken;

Burning tires, a taste of fame

The dusty engine  smells the same.

Wheels roll and the race begins.

A race to the finish;

A tight curve and a slippery slope

Ups and downs with a sip of dope

Metals scratch, bumpers thrash

The paint and vinyl now thinnish.

The smell of gasoline and nitro meth,

A step on gas and a scent of death;

Nonetheless,

A broken engine, a busted tire,

Tells no tale of a gem of fire;

A carved wound, a scarred face,

Tells not his story,

Nor his strife.

Look for me not in the gilded case,

For I am not there.

Look for me not in the muddy grave,

For I am not there.

Look for me not in the heavens

And mourn;

For I am right here smiling,

Behind the wheels, revving the engine.

You don’t see me;

Am right here, steering     

Burning tires, a taste of fame

The dusty engine though smells the same.

                     

                     In memory of Paul Walker